Beyond the OverlookYosemite: The Place That Made Us Want to Keep Hiking
Huge waterfalls, hard-earned views, and the first trip that left my feet aching but made me want to do it all again.
Firsthand visits in 2016, June 2023 and June 2024 · Last reviewed September 2026 · How we review our guides
Worth it? Absolutely. Yosemite’s scale is hard to take in: enormous granite walls, sheer rock faces and waterfalls that make you stop in your tracks. But the hiking and the logistics deserve preparation. Our first visit taught us both how much we had to learn and how much more we wanted to explore.
Our advice for a waterfall hiking day: start early and, if the full hike suits your ability and available time, keep going to Nevada Fall. The thinner crowds and more remote feeling farther up were worth the extra effort for us. For several days of valley hiking, we would also give serious weight to staying in the valley and reducing the daily drive.
Three visits, and still somewhere we want to return
Our first trip was in 2016. We returned in June 2023, hiking Upper Yosemite Falls and Vernal and Nevada Falls via the Mist Trail on separate days. In June 2024, we went back to Vernal and Nevada Falls again. There is so much here that we could never reasonably cover everything. These are the experiences we actually had.
Explore our Yosemite hikes
Our Half Dome Attempt: Mist Trail Up, John Muir Down
Our approximately 17-mile outing from Upper Pines in 2016 ended before the cables. The views made the journey worthwhile, and the day taught us to prepare for the distance.
Vernal + Nevada Falls via the Mist Trail
The waterfall hike we repeated. Continuing to Nevada Fall brought thinner crowds and a more remote feeling on our visits.
Upper Yosemite Falls: A Steep Climb Worth Preparing For
We reached the top in June 2023. Expect a hard climb, take breaks and save energy for the way down.
Where to stay: this is a park where location matters
Camping inside the park
On our first trip, we pitched our own tent at Upper Pines Campground and walked from our car to the campsite. We also walked from camp to start our Half Dome outing. Waking up surrounded by that scenery was unbelievable. Being there for the start of the day was part of the experience itself.
For a similar trip, use the official campground directory to compare locations and booking requirements. Choose a campground that fits the part of the park you plan to explore.
AutoCamp Yosemite: a nice stay with a long drive
On another visit, we stayed in an Airstream at AutoCamp Yosemite. It was a nice experience, but it felt expensive, and the drive into the park was long. For a trip centered on early starts and full hiking days in Yosemite Valley, that travel time matters.
AutoCamp Yosemite is in Midpines, near Mariposa. We would weigh the experience of staying there against the convenience of sleeping closer to the hikes. If the logistics and budget work, Yosemite is one place where we think staying inside the park makes sense.
Hotels and dining inside Yosemite
We also ate at a restaurant inside the park and thought they did a nice job. Our hotel recommendation here is about location; we are not claiming firsthand hotel stays.
The NPS lodging directory lists Yosemite Valley Lodge, The Ahwahnee, and Curry Village’s cabins and tent cabins among the valley options. Compare the location, lodging type and availability rather than assuming every address inside the park is equally close to your trailhead.
Crowds and parking: allow more time than you think
On a return visit, we circled around Curry Village looking for parking and eventually got lucky. It was not easy. Crowds are a real part of visiting Yosemite, both in parking areas and on the lower trails.
For spring-through-fall valley visits, NPS recommends arriving before 8 a.m. and leaving your car parked while you walk, bike or use the shuttle. Guests with campground or lodging reservations should use their accommodation’s parking under its rules; that does not reserve a space at another trailhead. See current NPS traffic advice.
On a busy weekend, I would think earlier than “before 8.” I would build the morning around getting to the trail early, with time for parking and the walk to the start. Circling Curry Village was not how we wanted to spend our time. An early start would be one of my biggest priorities on another visit.
Our preference is to get there early for a big hike. A later visit can work for a shorter outing, provided you leave enough daylight. Sleeping in the valley can make those decisions much easier.
June waterfalls, enormous walls, and room to keep exploring
Our June visits made a lasting impression because of the strong waterfall flow. The exact timing and intensity change with snowmelt and conditions each year; our photos show the days we experienced, not a promise for every June trip.
What stays with us most is the scale. The cliffs are massive, the rock faces seem impossibly sheer, and the valley makes you feel small in the best way. We have come back more prepared, but that sense of wonder has stayed the same.
Continuing through California? Read our Sequoia + Kings Canyon guide. For another long hiking day, start with our packing list.