Skógafoss is only the beginning — but first, the stairs
Skógafoss is right beside the parking lot, which makes it easy to think you have already seen the main event. You have not. The first challenge is the long staircase beside the falls. There are a lot of stairs, and the climb is no joke.
Once you reach the top, keep following the Skógá River. The first several miles were one of our favorite stretches of hiking anywhere in Iceland: waterfall after waterfall, each with a different shape, canyon and backdrop.
Then the green disappears
After hours of lush canyon scenery, the trail climbs into snow and ice between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. It felt like stepping into a completely different trip.
Walking across young lava
The landscape changes again as you cross lava from the 2010 Fimmvörðuháls eruption. When we hiked here in 2024, that lava was only about 14 years old. The fresh-looking black volcanic terrain made the route feel even more surreal.
Þórsmörk feels like a sanctuary
After snow, ice and black lava, Þórsmörk appears below you in layers of green ridges and deep valleys. Braided rivers thread across the valley floor, while rounded mountains rise in every direction. After the exposed terrain above, the descent feels sheltered, lush and almost impossibly green.
Plan the shuttle before you start
This is a one-way hike. We arranged a bus from Básar in Þórsmörk back to Skógar. The logistics are more complicated than a normal out-and-back, so reserve or verify transportation before committing to the crossing.
At the bottom we had food and beers while waiting for the ride. After a nine-hour day, that was a very good ending.
